We chose to use acetone over nail polish remover since the latter just isn't strong enough. Nail polish remover will work, but as shown in the video, it doesn't strip the paint as fast and effectively as acetone. But if you're restoring on a budget, you may have to go that route. You will definitely need a container to hold the acetone in. One thing to note is that you'll find your acetone evaporates very quickly. This is due to the fact that acetone has weak molecular bonds along with a low boiling point temperature of 57 degrees Celsius. For reference, water has a boiling point of 100 degrees Celsius.
Gloves are very important, especially working with harsh chemicals. You've been warned. The other important tool you'll need are cotton squares or balls. Cotton squares just work better, so if you can afford and use them, get them. You'll use the cotton swabs for tiny areas where the paint is difficult to reach.
The masking tape is used to cover areas that aren't going to be painted. We recommend going name brand with something like Scotch 3m. Some have used painter's tape. The stuff just works better than the dollar store counterparts. Trust me, you'll save a ton of time and trouble using name brand tape.
To prepare your midsoles, first tape the areas that will not be repainted with masking tape. Use little pieces and use your thumb nail to line up the tape right on the edge where the paint meets the non painted region. Continuing using small pieces all the way around the midsole. You can even double layer the tape for extra protection.
Once you've masked the areas off, it's time to pour the acetone into a bowl. Make sure you're bowl is safe to use. Next, take your cotton square and dip it in to get a good saturation of acetone. Make sure you're wearing gloves! Then start wiping down on the paint by using a motion that moves away from the tape. You don't want paint to transfer on areas that it shouldn't be on.
And that's it. Just continue the process throughout the midsole. You can use the Q-tips to reach smaller areas that are difficult to reach with the cotton squares.
The main tool you need is a sewing awl. Yes, you're going to get your Martha Stewart skills on. You can easily find a sewing awl on eBay, Amazon.com, and arts & crafts stores. Just do a quick search online. In addition to the sewing awl, you will need, hopefully, the original thread that was on the recipient pair. If not, you can find some embroidery floss at an art & craft store. The last thing you will need is beeswax. No, not that stuff in your ears. The beeswax is needed to strengthen the thread while restitching. If you don't use it, you risk clumping and damaging the thread.
You start by running the main thread, that will appear on the outside, through the actual needed of the sewing awl. You insert it about 2 inches through. Then, starting on one end of the toecap, you push in through the thread hole. Afterwards, you want to pull that 2 inches of thread inside the toecap, while pulling the sewing awl back out to the right. Next, move on to the next hole. As you insert the needle into the next hole, a loop will form. At this point, you will need the other string. This string will be inserted through the top of the loop.
After you have placed the second string through the loop, pull the sewing awl back out with the same motion. The inside string should be secured. Continue the process to each hole and continually placing the internal thread through the top loop. Finally you get to the last hole.
When you reach the last whole, you will insert the sewing all, but at this point, you will pull whatever remaining slack you have into the inside of the shoe.
This process is best watched then read. I tried my best. I know some of you might be wondering, how do I restitch the sole back to the upper. You will use the same process, but it will be challenging. First of all, you can't see very well inside the shoe. Plus, you have to align the holes on two different parts. Hopefully, they line up. We will try to show this process when we near the completing of our project.
Stay tuned for that.
Just to let you know upfront, we purchased the shoes early in order to prepare a future sneaker project that we're working on. And no, I won't tell you what that project is at the moment.
The Concord 11 Early Release has been fraught with issues on its quality and legitimacy since orders finally reached sneakerheads. The biggest player in the spotlight has been, for the most part, Air Randy. You might ask, why choose Air Randy to buy shoes from? Well, he offered the best deal, with great shipping. Plus, his previous sale on the Black Cement 3 had very little issues. Most of those customers were pleased. With that kind of track record, and the fact that we needed an early pair, made him the perfect choice.
My first impressions of the shoes are that they looked good. From far away, the shoes were indistinguishable of any flaw. However, as you begin to inspect closer, you soon realize the problems.
Now I'm no stickler for detail, but when someone tells you your shoes are legit and not B grades, you expect them to not be those things. On the contrary, the 11.5 pair I got from Air Randy was just that. Terrible B Grades. Am I judging too hard, probably. But it's what you sold the masses on is what irritates me.
1. Glue stains on the shoes, in particular, areas near the toecap. There was a sloppy job done on this part.
2. Dirt stains on the mesh.
3. Lack of consistency, no date code on the 10.5, and the 999999 on the size tag.
4. On the 11.5 my Air Jordan on the sole was touching an oval. This wasn't the case on the other shoe however.
5. The Jumpman Jordan tag doesn't have a properly stitched R, instead it has Q.
6. The carbon fiber isn't even finished properly. It looks rough. Plus, the carbon fiber
doesn't sit well on the shoe for some reason. It's almost as if it was the wrong size for my shoe.
7. 72 hour shipping turned into a 3-4 week arrival date. DELAYS!
There's this big issue for sneakerheads with regards to whether a sneaker is real or fake. For those of you that have been in the sneaker game for a while, you can definitely spot a fake when you see one. However, these Air Jordans are quite the anomaly. You can't really tell.
Speculation has it, that many of these shoes, although not authorized by Nike production, are made with genuine materials. That leads to the question, if a shoe is manufactured with the same genuine materials, but was not sanctioned by that company, would that make those shoes fake? With all things consistent, manufacturing processes and etc., are the shoes fake?
Would doing a sole swap, midsole swap, and back tab Nike Air replacement mean your shoes are fake? You're obviously altering the shoe with some other type of material from a genuine shoe. However, it was not sanctioned by Nike. Does that make your shoe fake? Does it make the Concord 2011 fake? Does it mean repainting your shoe's are fake?
What I can say is this? Because the quality of Jordan brand has spiraled down the past decade, you begin to reach a point where factories in China are able to duplicate and emulate the production and quality of legitimate releases. China is known for its knock-off productions. But if the material gets cheap enough and the manufacturing process is simplified, those Chinese knock-offs won't look so different than the actual releases.
In this episode we wanted to give you an idea of what we are working on and what we have planned. Although we haven't had any videos, we have been preparing projects in the coming months.
The Midsole Swap Project is still underway. We haven't given up on it just yet. My brother is having issues trying to match the paint color on the Air Jordan 4 white Cement, Grey colorway. Once we figure that out, we'll let you know. In the meantime, we're going to try and finish up the Black Cement 4's as the repaint job is much easier.
The Air Jordan 3 backtab can be sauced, to an extent. At some point, you won't see any results. We received a handful of questions wondering if the backtab can be restored. So we tested it out. Unfortunately, we got decent results, but nothing amazing. Plus, if you do sauce the backtabs, you will strip the paint on their. You will have to repaint the back tabs.
The next topic are the Air Jordan 5's. We had numerous questions ask if you could restore the netting and the sole using the sauce. We tried extensively with little success. In most cases, results were minimal. There have been however, other individuals successful in getting visible results. Try to find them on YouTube.
The Columbia 11's are notorious for that yellowing patent leather and you're right to quickly ask if they can be sauced. Unfortunately, we don't know. We don't have a pair. BUT, we are trying to get a hold of one and we'll get to testing and restoring as soon as one is here.
Sole separation was the other topic we wanted to cover. During our Sauce series, many of you were concerned about the sole separation problem. We even showed you sole separated Concords. Now, to ease your mind, we separated those intentionally. We discovered that separating the soles gave more latitude with regards to our sauce restoration process. Regluing the soles back on can be challenging, however, we will put a video together for you guys.
We don't do restorations as a service! It's not that we don't want to, it's just the situation right now. However, there are a couple of restorers you should check out.
RAF BUKY Sneaker Restores
The Concord 2011 Early Release has been on the sneaker spotlight for sometime now. Most of you are aware of the drama and current problems many early buyers have been having, including us. Now we purchased an early pair in order to work on our SUPER SECRET PROJECT 2. That's right, their is another project underway.
#62 - Top Rated (Today) - Education
#66 - Most Discussed (Today) - Education
The last technique shown is the indoor light setup. The indoor light technique requires two clamp light fixtures, which you can purchase at a local hardware store. In addition, you will need two repti-glow bulbs which emit UV-A light. I have suggested black lights, but I can't vouch for it at this time since I haven't tested them.
The downsides to using the indoor lighting technique is the prolonged exposure to UV rays. Overtime, the heat and the UV rays will strip the traction off the soles of the shoes. So even if you cover the traction pods, the rest of the soles will also lose traction. That's why using the outdoor technique in short burst gives you the best and fastest results.
Ten hours underneath a UV light is equivalent to two hours outside in direct sunlight. This was based on my experience with the sauce.
In this video, we show you how to prepare your Air Jordan 11's for outdoor saucing. As easy as it is to prepare and setup this technique, you need to take all the precautions to prevent any type of sole separation. A good surface temperature to keep in mind is 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If you use an infrared temperature reading gun, you want to avoid this temperature.
My tip is to actually sauce your shoes early in the morning. Of course it depends on what available light is there in your area. For us, we start around 8am and go up until 10am. However, if you live in a very hot area, working on your shoes is going to be a difficult affair.
In this segment I also introduce our Super Sea Glow Restoration project. We are currently in the works of finding an alternative to Sea Glow. Be sure to stay tuned for our upcoming video that will talk about that more.
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